In these cases, you may want to begin by estimating what the value of your finished project will be. After that, simple math will tell you what you can afford to pay for the project vehicle. If, for example, you figure on a finished cost of $20,000 for your completed motorhome, and it's going to cost $10,000 for parts and labour, you can afford to pay the last 10 for the Sleeping Beauty. But in some cases, you can find that the parts and labour ate up all of your projected finished value and more, so bear in mind that the hulk you're shopping on may have little value at all. As for labour, you should allow yourself at least some value for your time, and factor this into your cost price. Meaning, if you buy a "turn-key" bus, you spend no time and need factor in no cost. If you start with a complete hulk, the time and material costs will almost inevitably turn out to be some number of times more than estimated.
The considerations and approximate values go something like this:
If it's just barely running, (or can be made to) although it will need replacement, it still has some value - it can save you the price of flatbedding or towing home if it can be made to limp the distance. Thus, even the original Buick and 4-speed Spicer in an old Clipper can be of some value (if runnable) - although you don't want to forget you'll be replacing it.
Thus, what's inside can add from a couple of hundred to thousands to the fair price for your prospective new motorhome.
After that, what about the fluting? (if any) Stainless steel can be polished, (for a serious price). Anodized aluminum cannot. With the aluminum, you're pretty well stuck with what you have - unless you elect to replace it. This means sourcing the material, drilling out all the rivets, and re-rivetting. The latter process, to be done right, means first stripping the interior down to the inside of the outer skin. So a shiny stainless fluting job on your prospect adds a LOT to its value! An aluminum one in good condition, less so, but still significant. Some restorers have elected to give up on it and just fill the holes and paint the whole works. Your call.
This gives you a rough idea of the replacement cost to anticipate for areas that will obviously require attention. It never hurts at this stage to have an associate in on the exam - from a less-involved friend to a hired-hand professional mechanic. Your expertise and objectiveness should be suspected in a purchase of this nature. Now, let's look in detail at the more important areas to examine.
Rust repair, for instance. Rust never sleeps, and once body rot has begun, it can be a never-ending battle to keep up with it. Not to mention that it will inevitably turn out to be worse than you thought once you get in there. This is a particularly important consideration with unibody construction - there is no heavy-gauge frame upon which the Flxible Clipper body sits - the body is the frame. Thus, a weak suspension mounting point, for example, will mean you need to do some extensive restoration work just to keep the tires from scraping the wheelwells, once it gives out. Personally, I walk away from rust as fast as I can! - And, unless you're an experienced and well-equipped expert, I strongly recommend you do the same!
The places to check are the outer skin - all the way down and under to the very bottom - and the suspension mounting points.
Skin replacement is the easiest of the rust repair chores. It is necessary to have the inside of the coach stripped to the skin to do it properly, but when you have this access you can assess the damage and deal with it. If the frames can be saved, basic skin replacement will involve only drilling out the rivets that hold the panel in question in place, securing a piece of sheet metal of the same gauge and finish (plain steel, not galvanized), and riveting it into place. The riveting process shapes the metal as you work it down a frame. Riveters start with sheet metal screws (or the fancier "Clecos") every few holes to hold the panel in place, and follow by rivetting along the frames, forming the metal as they go. This is serious metalwork, but fairly simple once you have the tools - a rivetting gun (a regular air hammer will work, with a "rivet snap" in the tool clip) and a few "bucking bars." It's a two-man job, with the bucker inside while the riveter works on the outside.
Skin replacement gets more complicated if the frame has corroded beyond re-use as well. Then, it's necessary to fabricate new frames, or parts of frames, or find replacements from a parts Flx. Replacement is simply a matter of welding in a fresh piece, or de- and re-rivetting the new frame into place before replacing the skin. It's a lot like boat repair.
The Really Heavy-Duty rust repair is the kind which involves the chassis metal, particularly the spring mounting points. During examination, look at each of the springs in turn, and identify the chassis members which provide the mounting points for the shackle pins which connect the springs to the chassis. Carefully scrape away all mud and road grime, and use a strong light to look for any signs of excessive corrosion. There will inevitably be some surface rust, but if you use a small hammer, wrench, or other such tool, you should hear a solid clunk to the metal, and not a weak wimpy dooof. If in doubt, attempt to drive a center punch through the metal - if it goes through, you know you'll need to be cutting out some metal and welding in replacement chassis parts on this one! Not a job for the lightweight, although a good bodyman can do wonders with a plasma cutter, and a heavy-duty sheet metal shop can reproduce the parts he cuts out, and he can weld them in place with a mig machine. This has to be done right, though, and by an expert. Just knowing where to cut is half the battle. This comes under the category of major restoration.
Next, the Power Train. Does it run? If it doesn't, will it really just require a new battery and a little tuning up? In almost all cases, the answer will turn out to be no, definitely not. The major reason for abandonment of the Motorhome will have been that it just wasn't reliable any more - when it gets to the point where it takes all day to get it started, or it's overheating so badly it just won't climb hills, or it won't run at all, that's when it gets parked to await a rebuild or re-power - or, most likely, the arrival of a new would-be owner. In most cases, it goes through a few of those before one comes along who realizes what it needs, and factors a repower into his plans before proceeding any further. Careful shopping, doing all the work yourself, and settling for a big-block gasoline engine can get you through for as little as a few thousand dollars, but going Deluxe with a new diesel and matching 5 or 6-speed automatic will soon put it on the windy side of ten! So, if a recent repower has been done, consider the value of this little extra in your contemplations.
It's nice to dream that the existing engine can be made to run with just a little TLC, but, trust me, it's usually the reason the bus came out of use. And often, like the famous "one-hoss shay," the rest of the unit was in about the same condition. Add to that the deterioration of years of storage/neglect in the weather, and you've got a serious complete rebuild and restoration project on your hands.
And don't forget the radiator, which will generally need a seriously expensive re-core. That can be another G-note.
How about the exterior finish? It will be at some stage, from simply needing a wax job to complete stripping, priming, and painting. The existing paint will in all likelihood need redoing, but an even more important question is whether it will suffice as a base coat for new finish, or require complete stripping to bare metal. Peeling, reticulation ("crazing"), or just too many chips will mean the much more intensive total refinishing. The price of repainting can vary widely. While examining, don't forget that body rust under the stainless or aluminum side panels is also a consideration - in some cases, you'll have to remove it just to refinish (or replace!) the steel underneath.
Check also the aluminum or stainless fluted panelling. This can be very expensive to replace, and replacement will require access to the backs of all the rivets, meaning completely stripping the inside walls - or using a one-side rivetting process, such as Cherry Rivets, or the less strong Pop Rivets.
And finally, the House Part. The more astute among the readership will have noticed that we have not yet begun to discuss the actual home part of our motor home - if there is one. This will consist of clean and dirty water tanks, cabinetwork, appliances - such as furnace/air conditioners, stove, water heater, fridge, etc -, flooring, counter tops, drawers, closets, and all the things that make a bus a home. These, if they exist at all, will be in varying stages of repair - from good usable condition to throw-me-away. But if you're attaching any value to what's there, examine the condition carefully. It's well worth the time to hook up a propane tank (your barbecue likely has one) to the system and test the appliances before attaching any value to them - the time will be well spent in the long run. Be especially critical of the refrigerator - a new 3-way RV fridge can cost close to $3000, and they are the most likely of all appliances to fail. In my experience they have a short lifespan, and the one in your Beauty will most likely require replacement. If in doubt, try it - if it won't freeze a plastic container of water in a few hours, it never will. Stoves and water heaters seem to last a lot better and usually work for many years. Still, don't even consider them there unless tested and passed. If acceptable, they can save a lot of money in your refit, but if they don't work, they'll just be more junk to dispose of. (Fridges can sometimes be brought back by being set upside down for a week or so, but don't count on it!)
Similarly, inspect the cabinetwork carefully, paying particular attention to doors, drawers, and countertops. "Homebuilts" particularly often turn out to be so unsatisfactory in condition that you'll end up tearing them out and completely replacing them, anyway, so why pay for them? You'd be better off if they weren't there!
Only after you've sussed out the requirements in these areas - and made realisic projections of the costs involved in bringing them "back up to snuff" - can you begin to come up with a realistic dollar figure for what it's worth to you.
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